Part 1
Texas Monthly did a relatively fine job in compiling a list of 63 things all Texans should do before they die. About a dozen West Texas points were named among the list in the magazine's most recent edition. But what if you don't want to leave West Texas? There's plenty to do out here without ever having to go to other parts of the state. The way I figure it, it'll take you about two weeks to complete everything that would need to be done on a "West Texas Before I Die To-Do List." And with Spring Break just around the corner, if you have some time but no plans, maybe you can find time to get some of the following stops done and then knock out the other half later this spring or summer:
Day 1
Drive Hwy 67 from Fort Stockton to Presidio. This 150-mile drive, one of the most under-appreciated, yet most scenic in Texas, takes you through 50 miles of beautiful valley between Stockton and Alpine and later the beautiful cuts through the Cuesta de Burro and Chinati ranges closer to Presidio. Scale of 1 to 5 on the Must Do Scale: 3.
Drive Hwy. 170, The River Road, from Presidio to Terlingua. There is no better drive in Texas. The view from the top of The Big Hill is breathtaking and worth every roll of the odometer it takes to get to this point, regardless whether you drive in from Midland, Texas or Midland, Michigan. Must-Do Scale: 5.
Eat a late lunch at the Starlight Theater, Terlingua. The dogs that roam about the saloon add to the ambiance but its the greasy cheese enchiladas that you'll remember and will keep you full for the rest of the day's activities. If you wait a little later in the day you may get lucky and stop in during a musical performance in the evening. Terlingua is the home of Butch Hancock, one of the Flatlanders, who have been known to amp it up at the Starlight. Must-Do Scale: 2.
Hike Grapevine Hills, Big Bend National Park. It's described in the hiking books as an easy hike, but the 1 mile walk is at a constant slight incline and the last several hundred feet are almost stair step, but the view from Stone Window of the Chisos at sundown is worth the trouble. Must-Do Scale: 3.
Day 2
Hike The South Rim, Chisos Mountains, Big Bend National Park. Set aside seven hours to do this, then another couple to recover. The hike out is very strenuous, and remember to bring enough water for the last leg of the journey. The Boy, who was 12 when he made this hike, made it a couple of weeks after he hiked Guadalupe. The Guadalupe walk, he said, was a walk in the park compared to the South Rim. This from a healthy former 12-year-old Boy Scout, so you've been warned. The payoff at the overlook on the south rim is like none other. Must-Do Scale: 5.
Day 3
Meet Victor, The Singing Mexican, Boquillas Canyon, Big Bend. Take an easy 1.5 mile hike into the mouth of this gorgeous canyon and hope that Victor, a former boatman in Boquillas before the border was sealed, is flexing his musical pipes with his haunting Mexican ballads. Tip him well. It's his only source of income. You will never forget the experience of hearing him sing and how his songs echo off the canyon walls. Must-Do Scale: 4.5.
See Mother Nature's Twin Towers. Turn around at Boquillas for the 60 mile drive to Santa Elena Canyon on the southwest side of the park where, once standing underneath Mother Nature's Twin Towers, you may never seem quite as small. It is a humbling site and feeling. Must-Do Scale: 4.5.
Day 4
Play a round of golf at the Black Jack Pershing Course, Lajitas. Put an asterisk next to this one because Lanny Wadkins' newly designed course won't open until October. But when it does, it will be THE golf destination in West Texas if not the entire southwest. There will not be another course that can come close to offering the vistas from teebox to green that Black Jack will have. Must-Do Scale: For golfers, a clear 5.
Browse the Front Street Book Store, Alpine. This bookstore is divided into new store and used store. The used book store is across the street and is unstaffed. A sign on the front door encourages patrons to use the honor system and when they've made their selection to please walk across the street to complete their purchase. Must-Do Scale: 2.5
Eat at Alexanders, Alpine. Killer fajitas. Must-do scale: 2.5
Catch a minor league baseball game at Kokernot Field, Alpine. As pure a form of baseball as you'll watch in as quaint a stadium with a one-of-a-kind view of Twin Peaks and Cathedral Mountain. Must-Do Scale: 3.
Dance at Railroad Blues, Alpine. A legendary dance hall with as good a music as you'll find this side of Terlingua. Must-Do Scale: 2.
Day 5
Wild Rose Pass at Sunrise. Leave Alpine early and head northeast out of Fort Davis on Hwy. 17 for a view of a memorable sunrise on the spectacular Star Mountain. Must-Do Scale: 3.5.
Take in the view from Mt. Locke at the McDonald Observatory. The view south from Mt Locke, across the Coyanosa Valley -- where you began your journey on Day 1 -- and the southern Davis Mountains is one of the best moutain top views in the state. Guaranteed. Must-Do Scale: 4.
Watch the sunset from atop the Scenic Drive, Davis Mountains State Park. Scenic Drive in Davis Mountains State Park is a highlight of any visit here. Drive to the top at sundown and the picture at the top of this entry is what you'll see. God's handiwork in action. Must-Do Scale: 4.
To be continued ...
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